The venerated surfer talks about his emergence into the sport of surfing and how the ocean always has a way of grounding him.
As the sun rises on beaches from South Africa to Hawaii, surfers heed the ocean's call. Salt spray kisses their face hello as they paddle out, scan the horizon, and wait. When the perfect wave arrives, they leap to their feet and become one with the tide. It's an artform: With each carve along the face of a wave, they feel their fiberglass deck flex beneath their feet; for a moment, they're weightless, suspended between the sky and ocean, before plunging into the sea's powerful embrace.
"When you're sitting out there waiting for a wave, you feel part of the broader universe," says former pro surfer Shaun Tomson. While the athleticism of surfing is undeniable, there’s also a spiritual side. "It's nice to have that blend," says Tomson.
Surfing draws an estimated 30 million enthusiasts worldwide. For most, it's a pastime that helps them escape from the stress of daily life and provides an opportunity to connect with nature. However, it's more than just a hobby for the 2,000 surfers with the talent, passion, and dedication required to compete professionally. Still, a select few will transcend this elite group and become legends. Gifted with natural talent, undeniable charisma, and an insatiable drive to perfect his craft, Tomson has cemented his place among the all-time greats, including Kelly Slater, Stephanie Gilmore, and the father of modern surfing, Duke Kahanamoku.
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Recently, Tomson joined us on an episode of the Men's Journal Everyday Warrior Podcast for one of our most inspiring and emotionally touching interviews. This article examines his legendary rise and how surfing helped him heal after experiencing a devastating loss.
The Rise of a Legend
Born in Durban, South Africa, Tomson and his family have always shared a deep love for the ocean. As a young boy, he played safely in the shallows. But as he grew, he ventured into deeper waters, where his father taught him to surf at 10 years old.
"My father passed his love of surfing onto me," reflects Tomson. "My dream was to be one of the greatest surfers in the world, and [that] meant going to Hawaii to ride the biggest waves."
Countless hours honing his skills on Durban's beach breaks paid off for Tomson, whose unique surfing style has revolutionized aspects of the sport. When he arrived on Hawaii's North Shore with his father in 1969, he’d already made a name for himself in the South African surfing community. But this was a new challenge. "I had to learn to ride these terrifying waves and overcome my fear," he recalls.
While he and his father respected Hawaiian culture, some locals were wary that increased interest in surfing from outsiders would result in the co-opting of this ancient Polynesian way of life. “We explained that Hawaiian surfers are gods to us and that Hawaii was and always would be the center of surfing,” says Tomson. With this understanding, surfing culture eventually spread worldwide.
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Tomson's surfing achievements and credentials are truly legendary. At 17 years old, he won South Africa's most prestigious surfing event, the Gunston 500, and would do so for six consecutive years, cementing his reputation as one of the country's best surfers.
However, his global breakthrough came in 1977, when he became the first non-Australian to win the World Surfing Championships in Hawaii; a historic victory and defining moment in his career. Tomson competed for the next decade as one of the sport’s most prominent athletes before retiring in 1989.
Pain and Purpose
In 2006, Tomson suffered an unimaginable tragedy when his 15-year-old son, Matthew, died. The loss devastated the family and they struggled to cope. In the wake of this loss, Tomson says he questioned everything he knew and searched for a way forward. While the ocean had always brought him peace and tranquility, "after losing Matthew, my fire was gone," he explains.
After months of asking, a friend finally convinced him to come surfing. They went to a new surf break called Sunrise on the east coast of South Africa. As he paddled out, the waves washed away his tears, and he sensed his son's presence. Catching the first wave brought him a sense of renewal and connection, and surfing became a powerful tool that helped him grieve.
He learned that renewed purpose was essential to the healing process. For Tomson, that meant writing the book, The Surfer and the Sage: A Guide to Survive & Ride Life's Waves, which helps readers discover hope, activate purpose, and create optimism. "This book turned into a way to honor my son's life and find a new path forward," he says.
Losing a child is a heart-wrenching experience no parent should endure, but Tomson's story is a reminder that even in the darkest of times, there’s always hope.
The Talking Series is a weekly segment that delves deeper into topics discussed by guests of the Men’s Journal Everyday Warrior Podcast. A new episode of the Podcast is released each Tuesday.
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